Temples of South India - Roadtrips - I - TIRUPATI+

I've been meaning to write this for a long time, finally the time has come to put thoughts to keys.
Hmm... where do I start? Namma Karnataka o'course!
Temple travels started with the whirlwind Road-trip of: Dharmasthala-Kukke-Horanadu-Singeri-Kollur-Murudeshwar-Gokarna in 2008. This I already wrote in my earlier blog

Later, almost more than a year later, we drove to the ubiquitous Tirupati, with Aditi our adorable daughter.
We started on night of Oct 16, 09 in an Indica (100k kms old) with a very exerienced (read: 'old') driver, Ravikumar / Rkr. I believe he was with Ksrtc until recently and retired. More on him later.
22:00: left home Tirupati bound - hoping that his driving will be better than his disshelved appearance - counting on the Lord's blessings.
We kept up good speed, though the OMR was being re-done and numerous diversions + potholed roads.
23:15: Hoskote: Filled diesel at a shady pump.
00:34: Mulbagal-Chennai Xroads, road conditions improve dramatically.
01:10: Chckpost. Tea Break. Rkr was dozing while driving; suggested he take time off and wash; din't want to take risk with a 11 month old kid in tow.
Until now, Bebu slept like a Princess. Oh... sooooo adooooraable. She gets up the minute our car stops, fresh as a daisy and wants to play!!
Meanwhile, Rkr, after downing the hot-syrupy-liquid, took to the road with a vengance; Aditi and her mom went back to sound sleep, and I - back to blogging, time-tracking, route-monitoring, et al.
02:10: Chitoor bye-pass. Rougue truck drivers gave us a scare and we almost landed under a truck, but for our expert Rkr-who navigated out of the nasty situation. Tirupati - 66 kms away.
03:15: TIRUPATI!
This town never sleeps, or so it seems. Scores of people walking on the roads; a few enquiries and J's memory re-jog later we reach Gramma's home. Pleasantaries exachanged and all go back to sleep, Bebu included.
07:15: Quick bath, change of clothes, Bebu's exciement, off to Tirumala.

Toll: Rs 25; the Security guys (who just short of stripping pilgrims were checking other other vehicles) took kindly to us, Bebu's charm working wonders, and let us thru, with a wide grin!

The hill climb was always an exciting journey ever since I was a kid. The breathtaking views of Seven hills and the town below shrouded in mist are any nature enthusiast's feast.


Numerous hairpin bends and overtakings later, we reached Tirumala - the abode of Lord Venkareshwara.
The Tirumala hills, I read recently, are the world's second oldest rock mountains. The Sangam literature of Tamil such as Silapadikaram and Satanar's Manimekalai, dated between 500 BC to 300 AD, mentions Tiruvengadam (now named Tirupati).

Kanchi-mutt- was our destination, a short stopover on the hill. A few string-pulls and advance payment later, we checkin; but immediately leave to Varaha Guesthouse for tonsure! Yes, the ritual of relinquishing your pristine (not so my shiny pate :o) tuft; this was the third time for me, but first for Bebu! Luckily, the 09:30 shift was changing and the enire place was cleaned up; but the wait was excruciating as Bebu's pranks was in full-flow; what with so many people around, noise, que-s, other kids, distractions, urge to put everything into mouth, her excitement - our concern; we just ran out of breath! Thankfully the ordeal lasted about 20 minutes.
The ritual itself is another ineresting story, will blog later.

10:15: Few rupees given, ritual completed; Aditi switched on her siren the moment blade was put to her head, and switched off immediately after. She wailed more our of concern of inability to move her head rather than any pain. No blood shed. Shiney pates all.

11:45: Quick bath, change. Trudge to the shrine.







The searing heat got to Bebu and she dozed, while I searched for man-Friday. Couple of more strings and royally escorted inside the temple complex. Before we could realise we were in the sancum facing the Lord himself! Just an amazing feeling, no words, just an ethereal experience. Bebu sporting a naughty smile and folded hands.




30 minutes flat! That was a record for me, ever. I remember sending upto 6 hr in que-s waiting for Darshan; Bebu's luck.
Laddoos collected, back to the Mutt-room (a decent place, with a double-bed, fan that runs at high speed, clean toilet. Lunch and short rest.
16:30: Short sight-seeing around the hill (Papanasanam +).
18:00: Downhill to Gramma's place.

Tirupati town wore a festive look this Diwali, and looked awesome from this view downhill.






19:00 Crackers! Bebu simply loved watching us burst crackers. Though her first time, she was excited, eager and inquisitive. She also put a hand to the sparklers - with a wide-eyed question-mark-face look.








20:30: Dinner, sleep. This was a first time experience on a Roadtrip for Bebu. She took it well, never opnce complained of any discomfort. Absolute Darling!





18/10, 07:45: Quick coffee, family photo-ops, et al.
Tirupati to Sri Kalahasti, to seek the blessings of Sri Kalahasteeshwara and Gnanaprasoonambika Devi.

Strange looking flower (Passion Flower) in the midst of a garbage pile - talk of good things in bad surroundings!





09:15: Sri Kalahasti Thousands of devotees lit ghee diyas on the auspicious day of Deepavali, we followed suit.



The temple of Sri Kalahasti is on the banks of Swarnamukhi river, popularly known as Dakshina Kailasam. The three Gopurams of the temple are very exquisite. This temple was built during the period of King Krishnadevaraya of Vijayanagar. A huge hundred pillared mantapam, also built by the king is another important feature of this shrine.
Swarnamukhi river got its name from a fact that gold was found in the river! how ironic that the river now shines a golden hue in the Sun! A new road and parking lot are made bang in the middle adding to its misery.

This temple is also one of the Pancha Bhoota Stalams, a group of temples in South India that celebrate Shiva as the embodiment of the five primary elements. Sri Kalahasteeswara represents wind/air or Vayu Kshetram.
A very unique idol and many stories to go with the legends of this temple.

It is said that the Kalamkari art form came into being at Kalahasti.
http://www.kalamkariart.org.

I missed to mention that Venkaragiri (famous for cotton handloom sarees) was a stone's throw-44 kms away. Jaya was all for going and pick-up some goodies (read sarees, etc, etc); but being a Sunday, we took relief in the thought that all the weavers/businessmen/women of the village will not be interested and just didn't divert our route. Any other reason, I could've got killed!

10:30: Terible breakfast at Saravana (sic) Bhavan, right opposite the temple main entrance. Mind you, this has no connection whatsoever to its more illustrious namesake from Chennai. Less said the better of facilities, cleanliness and food quality; did I say service...? no one has heard of it here, Sir! Sorry.

Bebu's new hair-style got her goat. The sun simply scorched our shiny crowns. While she made all attempts to become cranky, the breeze in passing and Jaya's care made matters light.


12:15: Kanipakam. The Vinayaka temple was built by 11th century Chola King. But very little is left of that temple - what with granite/marble flooring, 5' granite cladding to walls, and so on. Local legends claim that the idol of Ganesha continuously grows in size, and is in its originally discovered place - a well!
Chilled Masala Soda in sweltering mid-noon sun... HEAVEN!!

By now our Rkr warmed up to us and announced that we must see a Hanuman temple in a place called Aragonda village or Ardhagiri hill.
Diesel pnce again; a pack of chips and icecream to soothe our growiling tummies.

13:45: Ardhagiri: Said to have been built in 12th century at a place where half of Sanjeevani hill being taken by Hanuman to Lakshmana broke fell - giving its unique name. It lies 15 kms from Kanipakam a short cut to Bangarupalem (not necessary to go to Chitoor for Bangalore route); terrible roads.
The temple was sadly closed. None of the hawkers enroute mentioned (while selling their wares) that the temple closes for lunch at 2 pm.



It was entertaining to see monkeys doing what they do best - monkeing around. a whole banana stem from a jeep in front of us, much to the amusement of all around.
Also found curious rock formations - the one here appears to be waiting to be tipped to roll of the mountain.
In Ardhagiri, it is believed that Sanjeevaraya Pushkarini (pond containing the holy water) never gets dried nor spoiled, even when kept for long periods of time. When devotees drink this theerham (or holy water) from the Sanjeevaraya Pushkarini, all types of diseases are getting cured. I couoldn't believe my eyes when I saw the lotus pond and the source of the holy waer, some 10' into the ground. Few villagers/devotees took away pet-bottles filled with 'holy' water from the spring. We preferred to remain un-holy this one time.

14:00: Return route to Bangalore.
14:30: Palamaner. Blore still 137 kms away.
Bad roads again, multitudes of diversions...
16:30: Kamat Upachar - light snacks. Bebu put a whole plate of mashed idly on herself and spilled a bowlful of sugar on the hotel table! Poor thing. She must have been bored stiff of the relentless driving.

17:10: Rkr insists on taking the bus route to our home from KR Puram, thru the Metro chaos in Ulsoor nd wekend traffic on Richmoond road.
18:45: Eventually we reach home.
715 kms - home to home.