Thursday, March 18, 2010
Wednesday, March 10, 2010
Spent Yellows
On to the road
Left the comfort
To make my ode
In the quest
To search my soul
I gave up myself
On the whole
What lies afar
Betray the eyes
Think it’s cosy
Just belies
I take the wind
Freedom’s flight
Dreams of horizon
End in blight
Am at a place
Beneath the skies
In a world
Filled with cries
T’is not home
Something but close
Around, my brethren
Spent Yellows
All Yellows
Sunday, March 7, 2010
Temples of South India - Roadtrips - II - Kanchipuram'
We had earlier visited Kanchipuram late 2006. It was sort of a conducted tour by a taxi driver, who took us to only one temple – Varadaraja Perumal – and a hi-tech solitary saree weaver + shop who by the way caters only to foreigners and few others (read hapless blinkered victims). Of course we saw a loom and how Kanchipuram sarees are weaved - but no activity.
So, it was always a dream to visit Kanchi leisurely, at our own pace and explore the place in its real sense. December 25, 2009 was a long holiday week-end and Kanchi was at a do-able distance. So, a few ‘googles’ and enquiries later, we decided to do it.
05:30: Left home; lock; stock and no barrel.
Gosh... disaster... Fuel gauge was hitting RED! Holy smokes!! So many what ifs went through my mind on NICE road, but bravely held a straight face despite butterflies inside
06:15: Hosur; HP petrol pump… Ahoy! Surprise! I find a colleague of mine also just tanked up and about to leave. Exchanged pleasantries, ladies met up (discussed best places to get quality sarees). Tanked up, checked tyre pressure and buzzed away.
Our ever-ready Bebu was absolutely un-fussy about waking up in the morning, quick bath, dress-up routine. In fact, she was running to the car the moment we put on her shoes, ‘cos she knew that she is about to do her favourite –outing with Amma & Nanna!
But the moment the car started moving, she dozed off, slowly into deep sleep; my sweet little cutie pie. She’s just the sport. Always ready to do anything with anyone. The Daaaaaaaaaaarling!
The way she said ‘naaaannnnaaaaaaaa’ first thing in the morning after waking, made a jelly of me. Of course, she doesn’t like to undress or dress up, tries to chew anything that she can/not lay her hands on; imagine – while bathing, she tries to eat soap! while applying baby cream, she tries to lick her hand or put the bottle to mouth and open with teeth; all this IS cute, but when you are just about to go on a long journey, and she pranks around, its such a helpless feeling, one must only experience.
A quick stop at Saravana Bhavan, Hosur; hot idly, tasteless sambar, passable chutney. Idli parcel for Bebu.
07:05: Krishnagiri Tollway. Mile-long que across 6 toll booths. Took about 35 minutes to clear. Appears that everyone was getting out of Bangalore.
10:10 - Kanchi! We were greeted by lush green fields immediately on turning onto the town from the highway.
The Raja-Gopuram, in the picture here, reaches a height of 57 meters, is one of the tallest in South Indian Temples, was built by Vijayanagar King Krishna Devaraya.
A view of other gopurams in the Ekambaranatha Temple complex.
So, it was always a dream to visit Kanchi leisurely, at our own pace and explore the place in its real sense. December 25, 2009 was a long holiday week-end and Kanchi was at a do-able distance. So, a few ‘googles’ and enquiries later, we decided to do it.
05:30: Left home; lock; stock and no barrel.
Gosh... disaster... Fuel gauge was hitting RED! Holy smokes!! So many what ifs went through my mind on NICE road, but bravely held a straight face despite butterflies inside
06:15: Hosur; HP petrol pump… Ahoy! Surprise! I find a colleague of mine also just tanked up and about to leave. Exchanged pleasantries, ladies met up (discussed best places to get quality sarees). Tanked up, checked tyre pressure and buzzed away.
Our ever-ready Bebu was absolutely un-fussy about waking up in the morning, quick bath, dress-up routine. In fact, she was running to the car the moment we put on her shoes, ‘cos she knew that she is about to do her favourite –outing with Amma & Nanna!
But the moment the car started moving, she dozed off, slowly into deep sleep; my sweet little cutie pie. She’s just the sport. Always ready to do anything with anyone. The Daaaaaaaaaaarling!
The way she said ‘naaaannnnaaaaaaaa’ first thing in the morning after waking, made a jelly of me. Of course, she doesn’t like to undress or dress up, tries to chew anything that she can/not lay her hands on; imagine – while bathing, she tries to eat soap! while applying baby cream, she tries to lick her hand or put the bottle to mouth and open with teeth; all this IS cute, but when you are just about to go on a long journey, and she pranks around, its such a helpless feeling, one must only experience.
A quick stop at Saravana Bhavan, Hosur; hot idly, tasteless sambar, passable chutney. Idli parcel for Bebu.
07:05: Krishnagiri Tollway. Mile-long que across 6 toll booths. Took about 35 minutes to clear. Appears that everyone was getting out of Bangalore.
The weather was pleasant, all the way. The NH7 road's so neat (barring a few village crossings and stray cattle grazing the green patches on divider), one can easily fall asleep on the wheel.
10:10 - Kanchi! We were greeted by lush green fields immediately on turning onto the town from the highway.10:30: After a few inquiries here and there, we finally reached Ekambaranatha Temple. It is said to be one of the five major Shiva temples or Pancha Bhootha Sthalams (each representing a natural element) representing the element - Earth.
This vast temple (in about 40 acres) is one of the most ancient in India having been in existence at least since 600 AD. Second century AD Tamil poetry speaks of Kama-kottam, and the Kumara-kottam (currently known as the Kamakashi Amman temple and the Subramanya temple). Initially this temple was built by the Pallava Kings. The Cholas, who came later, also made a few contributions to the temple.
The Raja-Gopuram, in the picture here, reaches a height of 57 meters, is one of the tallest in South Indian Temples, was built by Vijayanagar King Krishna Devaraya.The uniqueness of this temple is that there is no seperate shrine for Parvati, as in other Kanchi temples. However, There is a small shrine for Lord Vishnu named Thiru Nilaaththingal Thundathan. Here, the Lord Vishnu is prayed as Vamana Murthy.
The thousand pillared mandapam - Aayiram Kaal Mandapam in local language - was also built by King Krishnadevaraya. The temple's inner walls are decorated with an array of 1,008 Siva lingams.
A view of other gopurams in the Ekambaranatha Temple complex.
Legend has it that Parvati worshipped Shiva in the form of a Prithivi Lingam or a Lingam made out of sand, under a mango tree (that exists even now, about 3,500 years old whose branches give mangos in four different tastes). The neighboring Vegavati river then overflowed and threatened to engulf the Shiva Lingam and that Parvati embraced the Lingam. Lord Shiva touched by the gesture appeared in person and married her. In this context he is referred to as Tazhuva kuzhainthaar ("He who melted in Her embrace") in Tamil.
By now, the Sun, taking a cue from neighbouring Chennai, was smouldering; we were famished and sourged for food - while searching for the hotel where we reserved our rooms. There's a MG road here, too! And traffic cops! Wow... this place never ceases to surprise! We discovered an A2B outlet right next to an over-flowing Saravana Bhavan (yet again). The under-renovation hotel was a disappointment, with hardly any clean tables and chairs, leaky washrooms, etc. Just as we sat, ordered and tend to relax, the hoel owner - an elderly gentlemen - came running and informed that our car must be removed or the traffic police will take it away!
.There it was - an MG Road in distant Kanchipuram, with parking woes!! A quick word with the abusive portly policeman with handle-bar mush and the car was taken off in a jiffy. While returning, I hit a brainwave - since it'd take a while before food was served and Bebu was fed, I could checkout our hotel (Hotel Jayabala Inernational) and if any other better fare was available.
As luck would have it, There was Sree Sakthi right next door to the traffic signal. Once inside, I found the rooms were decent, similar to hotels in B'lore and blocked one.
After lunch (good food at A2B & accomodative waiters), we all crashed in the welcoming a/c room, after planning to visit few more temples in the evening and slept soundly.
Bebu thoroughly enjoyed the day thus far, created no ruckus and was an angel.
By now, the Sun, taking a cue from neighbouring Chennai, was smouldering; we were famished and sourged for food - while searching for the hotel where we reserved our rooms. There's a MG road here, too! And traffic cops! Wow... this place never ceases to surprise! We discovered an A2B outlet right next to an over-flowing Saravana Bhavan (yet again). The under-renovation hotel was a disappointment, with hardly any clean tables and chairs, leaky washrooms, etc. Just as we sat, ordered and tend to relax, the hoel owner - an elderly gentlemen - came running and informed that our car must be removed or the traffic police will take it away!
.There it was - an MG Road in distant Kanchipuram, with parking woes!! A quick word with the abusive portly policeman with handle-bar mush and the car was taken off in a jiffy. While returning, I hit a brainwave - since it'd take a while before food was served and Bebu was fed, I could checkout our hotel (Hotel Jayabala Inernational) and if any other better fare was available.
As luck would have it, There was Sree Sakthi right next door to the traffic signal. Once inside, I found the rooms were decent, similar to hotels in B'lore and blocked one.
After lunch (good food at A2B & accomodative waiters), we all crashed in the welcoming a/c room, after planning to visit few more temples in the evening and slept soundly.
Bebu thoroughly enjoyed the day thus far, created no ruckus and was an angel.
Friday, March 5, 2010
Tonsure at Tirumala
The ritual of shaving head or offerring of hair to Lord Venkateshwara is not uncommon. It is called Kesa Khandanam or mundan.
In Hindu tradition, the hair from birth is associated with undesirable traits from past lives. Thus at the time of the mundan, the child is freshly shaven to signify freedom from the past and moving into the future. It is also said that the shaving of the hair stimulates proper growth of the brain and nerves, and that the sikha, a tuft at the crown of the head, protects the memory.
At a special place called Kalyanakatta in Tirumala, many Barbers line up (assembly line like) along a lofty step and tonsure hair of pilgrims seated on a lower step. These barbers are appointed by the TTD board and paid a fixed salary of around 7k per month. In addition, they demand tips from the hapless victmised-pilgrims who are left half-done (Tirupati-Kshavaram) until their demands are met & fulfilled to full satisfaction.
Wailing babies, jostling adults, dirty-grime-coated-tiled-wet-floor, various distinct yet mixed smells of diluted dettol water, bleaching powder, coconut oil, sweat, et al, are the halmarks of the Kalyanakatta. This is also done in a couple of TTD governed Guest houses atop Tirumala hill (eg.: Rambagicha Guest Hosue, Varahaswamy Guest House, etc). wherever, whoever, the ritual is same. Right hand with Blade on head, signals with left hand gesturing for tips. If the need of tonsure is for a baby's first-time, the fee must be fat, mostly in cash, ideally, sometimes in kind (rice + pulses, etc) in the name of tradition. Since these barbers work in shifts, the housekeeping staff of the Board get a chance to clean up (sweep + pour water with force + dab bleaching powder) and heat water for Barbers' use.
On average, the temple goes through 50,000 blades a day - roughly 10% of all pilgrims who visit Tirumala go thru this ritual. Approximately 500 tons of human hair is sold per year; The sale brings the temple about Rs. 100 crores annually, that could actually be around 400~500 crores but for the syndicates and vested interests. The money, owever, is ploughed back into the temple, for providing free meals to many needy pilgrims, supporting local hospitals and religious schools and so on. Good quality hair ideally from young women that is more than 16 inches long can sell for Rs 12,000 per kg. These are used for hair extensions that in US could cost $3k each.
Indian hair is especially sought after the world over due to its superior quality, to make wigs, air extensions, weaving, coat insides, etc;
most Indians still do not use detergent-shampoos; but use reetha or shikakai for hair-wash that retain lustre. Detergents rob hair of rich nutrients and make them lifeless and dull.
In Hindu tradition, the hair from birth is associated with undesirable traits from past lives. Thus at the time of the mundan, the child is freshly shaven to signify freedom from the past and moving into the future. It is also said that the shaving of the hair stimulates proper growth of the brain and nerves, and that the sikha, a tuft at the crown of the head, protects the memory.
At a special place called Kalyanakatta in Tirumala, many Barbers line up (assembly line like) along a lofty step and tonsure hair of pilgrims seated on a lower step. These barbers are appointed by the TTD board and paid a fixed salary of around 7k per month. In addition, they demand tips from the hapless victmised-pilgrims who are left half-done (Tirupati-Kshavaram) until their demands are met & fulfilled to full satisfaction.
Wailing babies, jostling adults, dirty-grime-coated-tiled-wet-floor, various distinct yet mixed smells of diluted dettol water, bleaching powder, coconut oil, sweat, et al, are the halmarks of the Kalyanakatta. This is also done in a couple of TTD governed Guest houses atop Tirumala hill (eg.: Rambagicha Guest Hosue, Varahaswamy Guest House, etc). wherever, whoever, the ritual is same. Right hand with Blade on head, signals with left hand gesturing for tips. If the need of tonsure is for a baby's first-time, the fee must be fat, mostly in cash, ideally, sometimes in kind (rice + pulses, etc) in the name of tradition. Since these barbers work in shifts, the housekeeping staff of the Board get a chance to clean up (sweep + pour water with force + dab bleaching powder) and heat water for Barbers' use.
On average, the temple goes through 50,000 blades a day - roughly 10% of all pilgrims who visit Tirumala go thru this ritual. Approximately 500 tons of human hair is sold per year; The sale brings the temple about Rs. 100 crores annually, that could actually be around 400~500 crores but for the syndicates and vested interests. The money, owever, is ploughed back into the temple, for providing free meals to many needy pilgrims, supporting local hospitals and religious schools and so on. Good quality hair ideally from young women that is more than 16 inches long can sell for Rs 12,000 per kg. These are used for hair extensions that in US could cost $3k each.
Indian hair is especially sought after the world over due to its superior quality, to make wigs, air extensions, weaving, coat insides, etc;
most Indians still do not use detergent-shampoos; but use reetha or shikakai for hair-wash that retain lustre. Detergents rob hair of rich nutrients and make them lifeless and dull.
Monday, March 1, 2010
Temples of South India - Roadtrips - I - TIRUPATI+
I've been meaning to write this for a long time, finally the time has come to put thoughts to keys.
Hmm... where do I start? Namma Karnataka o'course!
Temple travels started with the whirlwind Road-trip of: Dharmasthala-Kukke-Horanadu-Singeri-Kollur-Murudeshwar-Gokarna in 2008. This I already wrote in my earlier blog
Later, almost more than a year later, we drove to the ubiquitous Tirupati, with Aditi our adorable daughter.
We started on night of Oct 16, 09 in an Indica (100k kms old) with a very exerienced (read: 'old') driver, Ravikumar / Rkr. I believe he was with Ksrtc until recently and retired. More on him later.
22:00: left home Tirupati bound - hoping that his driving will be better than his disshelved appearance - counting on the Lord's blessings.
We kept up good speed, though the OMR was being re-done and numerous diversions + potholed roads.
23:15: Hoskote: Filled diesel at a shady pump.
00:34: Mulbagal-Chennai Xroads, road conditions improve dramatically.
01:10: Chckpost. Tea Break. Rkr was dozing while driving; suggested he take time off and wash; din't want to take risk with a 11 month old kid in tow.
Until now, Bebu slept like a Princess. Oh... sooooo adooooraable. She gets up the minute our car stops, fresh as a daisy and wants to play!!
Meanwhile, Rkr, after downing the hot-syrupy-liquid, took to the road with a vengance; Aditi and her mom went back to sound sleep, and I - back to blogging, time-tracking, route-monitoring, et al.
02:10: Chitoor bye-pass. Rougue truck drivers gave us a scare and we almost landed under a truck, but for our expert Rkr-who navigated out of the nasty situation. Tirupati - 66 kms away.
03:15: TIRUPATI!
This town never sleeps, or so it seems. Scores of people walking on the roads; a few enquiries and J's memory re-jog later we reach Gramma's home. Pleasantaries exachanged and all go back to sleep, Bebu included.
07:15: Quick bath, change of clothes, Bebu's exciement, off to Tirumala.
Toll: Rs 25; the Security guys (who just short of stripping pilgrims were checking other other vehicles) took kindly to us, Bebu's charm working wonders, and let us thru, with a wide grin!
The hill climb was always an exciting journey ever since I was a kid. The breathtaking views of Seven hills and the town below shrouded in mist are any nature enthusiast's feast.
Numerous hairpin bends and overtakings later, we reached Tirumala - the abode of Lord Venkareshwara.
The Tirumala hills, I read recently, are the world's second oldest rock mountains. The Sangam literature of Tamil such as Silapadikaram and Satanar's Manimekalai, dated between 500 BC to 300 AD, mentions Tiruvengadam (now named Tirupati).
Kanchi-mutt- was our destination, a short stopover on the hill. A few string-pulls and advance payment later, we checkin; but immediately leave to Varaha Guesthouse for tonsure! Yes, the ritual of relinquishing your pristine (not so my shiny pate :o) tuft; this was the third time for me, but first for Bebu! Luckily, the 09:30 shift was changing and the enire place was cleaned up; but the wait was excruciating as Bebu's pranks was in full-flow; what with so many people around, noise, que-s, other kids, distractions, urge to put everything into mouth, her excitement - our concern; we just ran out of breath! Thankfully the ordeal lasted about 20 minutes.
The ritual itself is another ineresting story, will blog later.
10:15: Few rupees given, ritual completed; Aditi switched on her siren the moment blade was put to her head, and switched off immediately after. She wailed more our of concern of inability to move her head rather than any pain. No blood shed. Shiney pates all.
11:45: Quick bath, change. Trudge to the shrine.
The searing heat got to Bebu and she dozed, while I searched for man-Friday. Couple of more strings and royally escorted inside the temple complex. Before we could realise we were in the sancum facing the Lord himself! Just an amazing feeling, no words, just an ethereal experience. Bebu sporting a naughty smile and folded hands.
30 minutes flat! That was a record for me, ever. I remember sending upto 6 hr in que-s waiting for Darshan; Bebu's luck.
Laddoos collected, back to the Mutt-room (a decent place, with a double-bed, fan that runs at high speed, clean toilet. Lunch and short rest.
16:30: Short sight-seeing around the hill (Papanasanam +).
18:00: Downhill to Gramma's place.
Tirupati town wore a festive look this Diwali, and looked awesome from this view downhill.
19:00 Crackers! Bebu simply loved watching us burst crackers. Though her first time, she was excited, eager and inquisitive. She also put a hand to the sparklers - with a wide-eyed question-mark-face look.
20:30: Dinner, sleep. This was a first time experience on a Roadtrip for Bebu. She took it well, never opnce complained of any discomfort. Absolute Darling!
18/10, 07:45: Quick coffee, family photo-ops, et al.
Tirupati to Sri Kalahasti, to seek the blessings of Sri Kalahasteeshwara and Gnanaprasoonambika Devi.
Strange looking flower (Passion Flower) in the midst of a garbage pile - talk of good things in bad surroundings!
09:15: Sri Kalahasti Thousands of devotees lit ghee diyas on the auspicious day of Deepavali, we followed suit.
The temple of Sri Kalahasti is on the banks of Swarnamukhi river, popularly known as Dakshina Kailasam. The three Gopurams of the temple are very exquisite. This temple was built during the period of King Krishnadevaraya of Vijayanagar. A huge hundred pillared mantapam, also built by the king is another important feature of this shrine.
Swarnamukhi river got its name from a fact that gold was found in the river! how ironic that the river now shines a golden hue in the Sun! A new road and parking lot are made bang in the middle adding to its misery.
This temple is also one of the Pancha Bhoota Stalams, a group of temples in South India that celebrate Shiva as the embodiment of the five primary elements. Sri Kalahasteeswara represents wind/air or Vayu Kshetram.
A very unique idol and many stories to go with the legends of this temple.
It is said that the Kalamkari art form came into being at Kalahasti.
http://www.kalamkariart.org.
I missed to mention that Venkaragiri (famous for cotton handloom sarees) was a stone's throw-44 kms away. Jaya was all for going and pick-up some goodies (read sarees, etc, etc); but being a Sunday, we took relief in the thought that all the weavers/businessmen/women of the village will not be interested and just didn't divert our route. Any other reason, I could've got killed!
10:30: Terible breakfast at Saravana (sic) Bhavan, right opposite the temple main entrance. Mind you, this has no connection whatsoever to its more illustrious namesake from Chennai. Less said the better of facilities, cleanliness and food quality; did I say service...? no one has heard of it here, Sir! Sorry.
Bebu's new hair-style got her goat. The sun simply scorched our shiny crowns. While she made all attempts to become cranky, the breeze in passing and Jaya's care made matters light.
12:15: Kanipakam. The Vinayaka temple was built by 11th century Chola King. But very little is left of that temple - what with granite/marble flooring, 5' granite cladding to walls, and so on. Local legends claim that the idol of Ganesha continuously grows in size, and is in its originally discovered place - a well!
Chilled Masala Soda in sweltering mid-noon sun... HEAVEN!!
By now our Rkr warmed up to us and announced that we must see a Hanuman temple in a place called Aragonda village or Ardhagiri hill.
Diesel pnce again; a pack of chips and icecream to soothe our growiling tummies.
13:45: Ardhagiri: Said to have been built in 12th century at a place where half of Sanjeevani hill being taken by Hanuman to Lakshmana broke fell - giving its unique name. It lies 15 kms from Kanipakam a short cut to Bangarupalem (not necessary to go to Chitoor for Bangalore route); terrible roads.
The temple was sadly closed. None of the hawkers enroute mentioned (while selling their wares) that the temple closes for lunch at 2 pm.
It was entertaining to see monkeys doing what they do best - monkeing around. a whole banana stem from a jeep in front of us, much to the amusement of all around.
Also found curious rock formations - the one here appears to be waiting to be tipped to roll of the mountain.
In Ardhagiri, it is believed that Sanjeevaraya Pushkarini (pond containing the holy water) never gets dried nor spoiled, even when kept for long periods of time. When devotees drink this theerham (or holy water) from the Sanjeevaraya Pushkarini, all types of diseases are getting cured. I couoldn't believe my eyes when I saw the lotus pond and the source of the holy waer, some 10' into the ground. Few villagers/devotees took away pet-bottles filled with 'holy' water from the spring. We preferred to remain un-holy this one time.
14:00: Return route to Bangalore.
14:30: Palamaner. Blore still 137 kms away.
Bad roads again, multitudes of diversions...
16:30: Kamat Upachar - light snacks. Bebu put a whole plate of mashed idly on herself and spilled a bowlful of sugar on the hotel table! Poor thing. She must have been bored stiff of the relentless driving.
17:10: Rkr insists on taking the bus route to our home from KR Puram, thru the Metro chaos in Ulsoor nd wekend traffic on Richmoond road.
18:45: Eventually we reach home.
715 kms - home to home.
Hmm... where do I start? Namma Karnataka o'course!
Temple travels started with the whirlwind Road-trip of: Dharmasthala-Kukke-Horanadu-Singeri-Kollur-Murudeshwar-Gokarna in 2008. This I already wrote in my earlier blog
Later, almost more than a year later, we drove to the ubiquitous Tirupati, with Aditi our adorable daughter.
We started on night of Oct 16, 09 in an Indica (100k kms old) with a very exerienced (read: 'old') driver, Ravikumar / Rkr. I believe he was with Ksrtc until recently and retired. More on him later.
22:00: left home Tirupati bound - hoping that his driving will be better than his disshelved appearance - counting on the Lord's blessings.
We kept up good speed, though the OMR was being re-done and numerous diversions + potholed roads.
23:15: Hoskote: Filled diesel at a shady pump.
00:34: Mulbagal-Chennai Xroads, road conditions improve dramatically.
01:10: Chckpost. Tea Break. Rkr was dozing while driving; suggested he take time off and wash; din't want to take risk with a 11 month old kid in tow.
Until now, Bebu slept like a Princess. Oh... sooooo adooooraable. She gets up the minute our car stops, fresh as a daisy and wants to play!!
Meanwhile, Rkr, after downing the hot-syrupy-liquid, took to the road with a vengance; Aditi and her mom went back to sound sleep, and I - back to blogging, time-tracking, route-monitoring, et al.
02:10: Chitoor bye-pass. Rougue truck drivers gave us a scare and we almost landed under a truck, but for our expert Rkr-who navigated out of the nasty situation. Tirupati - 66 kms away.
03:15: TIRUPATI!
This town never sleeps, or so it seems. Scores of people walking on the roads; a few enquiries and J's memory re-jog later we reach Gramma's home. Pleasantaries exachanged and all go back to sleep, Bebu included.
07:15: Quick bath, change of clothes, Bebu's exciement, off to Tirumala.
Toll: Rs 25; the Security guys (who just short of stripping pilgrims were checking other other vehicles) took kindly to us, Bebu's charm working wonders, and let us thru, with a wide grin!
The hill climb was always an exciting journey ever since I was a kid. The breathtaking views of Seven hills and the town below shrouded in mist are any nature enthusiast's feast.
Numerous hairpin bends and overtakings later, we reached Tirumala - the abode of Lord Venkareshwara.
The Tirumala hills, I read recently, are the world's second oldest rock mountains. The Sangam literature of Tamil such as Silapadikaram and Satanar's Manimekalai, dated between 500 BC to 300 AD, mentions Tiruvengadam (now named Tirupati).
Kanchi-mutt- was our destination, a short stopover on the hill. A few string-pulls and advance payment later, we checkin; but immediately leave to Varaha Guesthouse for tonsure! Yes, the ritual of relinquishing your pristine (not so my shiny pate :o) tuft; this was the third time for me, but first for Bebu! Luckily, the 09:30 shift was changing and the enire place was cleaned up; but the wait was excruciating as Bebu's pranks was in full-flow; what with so many people around, noise, que-s, other kids, distractions, urge to put everything into mouth, her excitement - our concern; we just ran out of breath! Thankfully the ordeal lasted about 20 minutes.
The ritual itself is another ineresting story, will blog later.
10:15: Few rupees given, ritual completed; Aditi switched on her siren the moment blade was put to her head, and switched off immediately after. She wailed more our of concern of inability to move her head rather than any pain. No blood shed. Shiney pates all.
11:45: Quick bath, change. Trudge to the shrine.
The searing heat got to Bebu and she dozed, while I searched for man-Friday. Couple of more strings and royally escorted inside the temple complex. Before we could realise we were in the sancum facing the Lord himself! Just an amazing feeling, no words, just an ethereal experience. Bebu sporting a naughty smile and folded hands.
30 minutes flat! That was a record for me, ever. I remember sending upto 6 hr in que-s waiting for Darshan; Bebu's luck.
Laddoos collected, back to the Mutt-room (a decent place, with a double-bed, fan that runs at high speed, clean toilet. Lunch and short rest.
16:30: Short sight-seeing around the hill (Papanasanam +).
18:00: Downhill to Gramma's place.
Tirupati town wore a festive look this Diwali, and looked awesome from this view downhill.
19:00 Crackers! Bebu simply loved watching us burst crackers. Though her first time, she was excited, eager and inquisitive. She also put a hand to the sparklers - with a wide-eyed question-mark-face look.
20:30: Dinner, sleep. This was a first time experience on a Roadtrip for Bebu. She took it well, never opnce complained of any discomfort. Absolute Darling!
18/10, 07:45: Quick coffee, family photo-ops, et al.
Tirupati to Sri Kalahasti, to seek the blessings of Sri Kalahasteeshwara and Gnanaprasoonambika Devi.
Strange looking flower (Passion Flower) in the midst of a garbage pile - talk of good things in bad surroundings!
09:15: Sri Kalahasti Thousands of devotees lit ghee diyas on the auspicious day of Deepavali, we followed suit.
The temple of Sri Kalahasti is on the banks of Swarnamukhi river, popularly known as Dakshina Kailasam. The three Gopurams of the temple are very exquisite. This temple was built during the period of King Krishnadevaraya of Vijayanagar. A huge hundred pillared mantapam, also built by the king is another important feature of this shrine.
Swarnamukhi river got its name from a fact that gold was found in the river! how ironic that the river now shines a golden hue in the Sun! A new road and parking lot are made bang in the middle adding to its misery.
This temple is also one of the Pancha Bhoota Stalams, a group of temples in South India that celebrate Shiva as the embodiment of the five primary elements. Sri Kalahasteeswara represents wind/air or Vayu Kshetram.
A very unique idol and many stories to go with the legends of this temple.
It is said that the Kalamkari art form came into being at Kalahasti.
http://www.kalamkariart.org.
I missed to mention that Venkaragiri (famous for cotton handloom sarees) was a stone's throw-44 kms away. Jaya was all for going and pick-up some goodies (read sarees, etc, etc); but being a Sunday, we took relief in the thought that all the weavers/businessmen/women of the village will not be interested and just didn't divert our route. Any other reason, I could've got killed!
10:30: Terible breakfast at Saravana (sic) Bhavan, right opposite the temple main entrance. Mind you, this has no connection whatsoever to its more illustrious namesake from Chennai. Less said the better of facilities, cleanliness and food quality; did I say service...? no one has heard of it here, Sir! Sorry.
Bebu's new hair-style got her goat. The sun simply scorched our shiny crowns. While she made all attempts to become cranky, the breeze in passing and Jaya's care made matters light.
12:15: Kanipakam. The Vinayaka temple was built by 11th century Chola King. But very little is left of that temple - what with granite/marble flooring, 5' granite cladding to walls, and so on. Local legends claim that the idol of Ganesha continuously grows in size, and is in its originally discovered place - a well! Chilled Masala Soda in sweltering mid-noon sun... HEAVEN!!
By now our Rkr warmed up to us and announced that we must see a Hanuman temple in a place called Aragonda village or Ardhagiri hill.
Diesel pnce again; a pack of chips and icecream to soothe our growiling tummies.
13:45: Ardhagiri: Said to have been built in 12th century at a place where half of Sanjeevani hill being taken by Hanuman to Lakshmana broke fell - giving its unique name. It lies 15 kms from Kanipakam a short cut to Bangarupalem (not necessary to go to Chitoor for Bangalore route); terrible roads.
The temple was sadly closed. None of the hawkers enroute mentioned (while selling their wares) that the temple closes for lunch at 2 pm.
It was entertaining to see monkeys doing what they do best - monkeing around. a whole banana stem from a jeep in front of us, much to the amusement of all around.
Also found curious rock formations - the one here appears to be waiting to be tipped to roll of the mountain.
In Ardhagiri, it is believed that Sanjeevaraya Pushkarini (pond containing the holy water) never gets dried nor spoiled, even when kept for long periods of time. When devotees drink this theerham (or holy water) from the Sanjeevaraya Pushkarini, all types of diseases are getting cured. I couoldn't believe my eyes when I saw the lotus pond and the source of the holy waer, some 10' into the ground. Few villagers/devotees took away pet-bottles filled with 'holy' water from the spring. We preferred to remain un-holy this one time.
14:00: Return route to Bangalore.
14:30: Palamaner. Blore still 137 kms away.
Bad roads again, multitudes of diversions...
16:30: Kamat Upachar - light snacks. Bebu put a whole plate of mashed idly on herself and spilled a bowlful of sugar on the hotel table! Poor thing. She must have been bored stiff of the relentless driving.
17:10: Rkr insists on taking the bus route to our home from KR Puram, thru the Metro chaos in Ulsoor nd wekend traffic on Richmoond road.
18:45: Eventually we reach home.
715 kms - home to home.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)