Wednesday, April 29, 2015

Begur to Bangalore - The Probability of A Beginning!

Begur was a sleepy insignificant village, about 15 kms from Bengaluru, the capital of Karnataka, off-Hosur Road.


The IT boom in the 2000’s turned it into a commercial and residential hub due to its strategic location, between the Electronics city and IT in Koramangala.It has a history dating more than a millennium!


 It is averred that the Western Ganga Dynasty established this village as an important place, during their conquests to annexe Kongu region. The most significant heritage site existing till today in the village is the 1,300 year old Shiva temple complex, built by the Gangas – the Sri Panchalingehwara(890 AD). There is another site close by about 1.5 kms away – the Begur Fort, but then that’s another story. The Gangas ruled for 6 centuries upto 10th century AD.


The Sri Panchalingeshwara or The Begur Temple (as it is popularly known), was built by Sri. Rajasimhanandi of the Talakad Ganga Dynasty in 8th century A D. Said to be the 18th in the hierarchy of 108 temples built along with Sri Kulothunga Raja I of Chola Dynasty, the Panchalingeshwara Temple is the perfect admixture of simplicity and grandeur in granite.





FIVE TEMPLES



The main temple – Sri Parvati Sametha Nageshwara Swamy Temple is the largest of all. The Linga is about 3.5 feet tall. There is a separate shrine for his consort Goddess Parvati, and is represented by a five-foot idol. She is also known as Sri Dakshina Kali. Standing to the left of this idol and praying is believed to cure all blood related diseases, (incl blood cancer!). This divine form of Mother Goddess is the consort of Sri Nageshwara Swamy, and is never seen with other forms of Shiva that are worshiped here. Praying to Her also bestows happiness, wealth and spiritual solace. On the West of the navaranga is the 1200-year-old Kalabhaireswara in nagnaroopa.
Sri Choleshwara Linga: The shrine of Sri Choleshwara is where unmarried girls pray, standing below the carved Ashta Dik Palakas (Eight Guardian Angels) and Uma Maheswara on the ceiling, for an early and good alliance. The Linga is about 4 feet tall.
Sri Kali Kamateshwara Linga The idol of Sri Kali Kamateshwara is about three and a 3.5 feet tall. It is said to be similar to the idol of Sri Mookambika at Kollur. Both idols have a Linga placed at their feet. Here the Lord is known as Kamateshwara Linga, and is less than 1 feet. Devotees pray to to the Linga for Santhanam (children). Built originally by the Gangas, it was renovated by the Vijayanagar rulers. (15-16 AD)

 
Sri Nagareshwara Linga: This is the largest of all Lingas in this Temple, at over 4 feet tall. Devotees stand right side of this Linga and pray for prosperity; and on the left side of this Linga for prevention and cure of  skin diseases. Sun-God, Surya Narayana, is in front of this shrine, behind the idol of Sri Nandi (of about 4 feet), which is one of the most beautiful that I have seen.

Sri Karneshwara: This is the smallest of all the Lingas here and measure about 2.5 feet. There is a small Sri Nandi in front of this Linga. It is believed that Devotees stand on the right side of the Linga for relief from stomach related diseases, in front for ear (karna) related problems, and left side of Linga for nervous problems and brain disorders, including paralysis.


Uniqueness in this temple complex:
At the entrance to the Parvati Shrine, is the oldest idol of Ganesha found in South India, its uniqueness is that it is 2-armed. Two-armed Ganesha represents Pranava or Om, the sacred syllable from which Ganesha was created. 
 
There is probably the only temple in India where Sri Surya Narayana is placed in the East facing West. Traditional Temple Vaasthu Shastraa proclaims that the idol of Sri Soorya Narayana should be placed facing East. Here it was placed probably to ensure that the first rays of the rising sun fall on the main Linga. This shrine is also known as Bhaskara Kshetra (Sun Temple).
 
The Vimanas on all Shrines have sculptures on them, even though not very intricate, they are awesome; when I visited, few of them were being repaired / painted.
A well inside the Temple premises too has carved pillars, caters to the Sthala Theertha, and this water is used for all Temple rituals. Shami Vriksha and the large Bilva Patra are the revered Temple Trees. There were a number of birds on the Bilva tree that I haven't seen anywhere else.


There is also a stone carving on a slab of Sri Kulutunga Raja the First of Chola Dynasty who built this Temple, and his wife behind the Sri Vrishabha Kambha. There are a number of veeragallu / stones with history that lie wasted all around the temple.few of them are also broken and dumped along with scrap-waste. Unless taken-up seriously, precious history could be lost. These are not just aged-old stones, each one is screaming to tell its own story!

 






The temple complex used to be on the banks of the Bommanahalli / Begur Kere; now the kere (lake) has retreated almost a few hundred meters; there is rampant encroachment on the lake-bed and commercial vegetation is being grown for many years now. Almost every other home in the village bears the signs of religious conversion.






 


It appears that INTACH helped build a compound wall and an entrance gate in 2002. This is in a dilapidated condition. A Gov't Boys school building beside the temple wears an abandoned look, and a while I was there, a group of boys vanished inside and emerged after a long time (- a den for nefarious activities)? A fresh new entrance/ Gopuram is constructed by a local MLA, and has no compound wall around to protect the Temple from sundry riffraff vandalising the holy precincts.


Sri B S Ananth Deekshitar is the chief priest, and his family are said to be the caretakers and priests (Archakas) of Begur Temple for the last 1300 years, and authorised by the Chola and Talakadu Dynasties. He says that this Temple is an energy zone and standing in specific places in the Temple have positive attributes and helps in mental peace, protection from enemies, diseases, skin problems, spiritual enhancement and protection from black magic etc, as mentioned earlier here..





The concept of Pancha or 5
It is widely believed that Lord shiva is associated with Pancha-bhootas (elements – Wind, Fire, Earth, Sky and Water), which are represented by the 5 shrines –
Kalahasti in Andhra Pradesh known, as Vamadeva is associated with Vayu – Wind.
The Arunachala lingam in Tiruvanamallai is related to Agni – Fire.
The Lingam at Kanchipuram called BhulingamEarth element.
At Chidambaram is the Aakasa lingam, related to the Sky and
The Jambukeswara temple near Tiruchi which is the Jala lingam, the Water.



Bangalore originates here?

Bengavalluru kaleghadhul buttana setti sattam, the ‘halegannada’ inscription on the rock says; Buttana Setti (presumably a warrior) died in Bengaval-uru (city of guards). This veeragallu or victory stone dates back to the 10th century; Until this inscription was discovered, by the legendary B.L. Rice, the former director of the Mysore archaeology department and compiler of Epigraphia Carnatica, and confirmed by noted historian Sri Narasimhachar (E-C, Vol 10), it was assumed that there was no Bangalore before KempeGowda I.

It is believed that king Veera Ballala who ruled the Deccan Plateau of south India during 1120 AD, built a town in memory of an old woman who saved his life by giving him ‘boiled-beans’ during a hunting expedition, and named it ’Benda–kal–ooru’; over time, this became Bengaluru, later anglicized to Bangalore, and now back to Bengaluru. Later, in 1537, Kempegowda-I shaped the city that we now know as the Bangalore.


Bengaluru takes shape

KempeGowda-I, a Chieftain under the Vijayanagar Empire, had Yelahanka as his Capital. He sought the Empire's permission to establish a self-contained township with fort, cantonment, markets, reservoirs, temples, etc.; thus he came upon Bengaluru, built a small mud fort in 1537 AD, and shifted his capital to the new Town. He certainly deserves credit, in bringing together many areas under the town Bengaluru. Another theory is that while Kempegowda-I went about bringing together many hutments and dwellings under the new town; there was a big forest which is believed to have been burnt down. So the town built on Benda Kadu (burnt forest) "Benda kaduru", later got transformed to Bengada-uru and finally Bengaluru.
His grandson, KempeGowda-II (1578-1658 AD) carried the vision forward by leaps and bounds and expanded the township, by erecting few more watch towers, and most of the 400-odd lakes/water-bodies that sustained Bangalore until recently (Kempambudhi, Ulsoor, Dharmambudhi, Hebbal). Few of them still survive, many others have been killed by mindless encroachments and land-mafia. Bangalore was first a City of Lakes and then became the Garden City, which is now the Silicon city.

The Serene Ulsoor Lake

Footnote
 
Many of the 'Theories' around the origin of the city of Bengaluru hardly anything concrete to prove; the stone inscription at Begur temple seems to be the most authentic one to reflect Bengaluru's humble beginnings, and then the work of KG-I and KG-II's has itself to show...
I just hope the concrete jungle doesn't totally replace the once lush green almost-jungle-type foliage, and hopefully one day it could become the pensioner's paradise it once was, during my childhood! 

Photos credit: Self
Contents credit: Local villagers, Internet, Books, Journals, et al.
Disclaimer: No attempt to steal any information, just a sincere effort to put my thoughts and gatherings together