Sunday, March 7, 2010

Temples of South India - Roadtrips - II - Kanchipuram'

We had earlier visited Kanchipuram late 2006. It was sort of a conducted tour by a taxi driver, who took us to only one temple – Varadaraja Perumal – and a hi-tech solitary saree weaver + shop who by the way caters only to foreigners and few others (read hapless blinkered victims). Of course we saw a loom and how Kanchipuram sarees are weaved - but no activity.

So, it was always a dream to visit Kanchi leisurely, at our own pace and explore the place in its real sense. December 25, 2009 was a long holiday week-end and Kanchi was at a do-able distance. So, a few ‘googles’ and enquiries later, we decided to do it.

05:30: Left home; lock; stock and no barrel.
Gosh... disaster... Fuel gauge was hitting RED! Holy smokes!! So many what ifs went through my mind on NICE road, but bravely held a straight face despite butterflies inside 
06:15: Hosur; HP petrol pump… Ahoy! Surprise! I find a colleague of mine also just tanked up and about to leave. Exchanged pleasantries, ladies met up (discussed best places to get quality sarees). Tanked up, checked tyre pressure and buzzed away.

Our ever-ready Bebu was absolutely un-fussy about waking up in the morning, quick bath, dress-up routine. In fact, she was running to the car the moment we put on her shoes, ‘cos she knew that she is about to do her favourite –outing with Amma & Nanna!
But the moment the car started moving, she dozed off, slowly into deep sleep; my sweet little cutie pie. She’s just the sport. Always ready to do anything with anyone. The Daaaaaaaaaaarling!
The way she said ‘naaaannnnaaaaaaaa’ first thing in the morning after waking, made a jelly of me. Of course, she doesn’t like to undress or dress up, tries to chew anything that she can/not lay her hands on; imagine – while bathing, she tries to eat soap! while applying baby cream, she tries to lick her hand or put the bottle to mouth and open with teeth; all this IS cute, but when you are just about to go on a long journey, and she pranks around, its such a helpless feeling, one must only experience.

A quick stop at Saravana Bhavan, Hosur; hot idly, tasteless sambar, passable chutney. Idli parcel for Bebu.

07:05: Krishnagiri Tollway. Mile-long que across 6 toll booths. Took about 35 minutes to clear. Appears that everyone was getting out of Bangalore.

The weather was pleasant, all the way. The NH7 road's so neat (barring a few village crossings and stray cattle grazing the green patches on divider), one can easily fall asleep on the wheel.

10:10 - Kanchi! We were greeted by lush green fields immediately on turning onto the town from the highway.

10:30: After a few inquiries here and there, we finally reached Ekambaranatha Temple. It is said to be one of the five major Shiva temples or Pancha Bhootha Sthalams (each representing a natural element) representing the element - Earth.
This vast temple (in about 40 acres) is one of the most ancient in India having been in existence at least since 600 AD. Second century AD Tamil poetry speaks of Kama-kottam, and the Kumara-kottam (currently known as the Kamakashi Amman temple and the Subramanya temple). Initially this temple was built by the Pallava Kings. The Cholas, who came later, also made a few contributions to the temple.
The Raja-Gopuram, in the picture here, reaches a height of 57 meters, is one of the tallest in South Indian Temples, was built by Vijayanagar King Krishna Devaraya.
The uniqueness of this temple is that there is no seperate shrine for Parvati, as in other Kanchi temples. However, There is a small shrine for Lord Vishnu named Thiru Nilaaththingal Thundathan. Here, the Lord Vishnu is prayed as Vamana Murthy.


The thousand pillared mandapam - Aayiram Kaal Mandapam in local language - was also built by King Krishnadevaraya. The temple's inner walls are decorated with an array of 1,008 Siva lingams.















A view of  other gopurams in the Ekambaranatha Temple complex.

Legend has it that Parvati worshipped Shiva in the form of a Prithivi Lingam or a Lingam made out of sand, under a mango tree (that exists even now, about 3,500 years old whose branches give mangos in four different tastes). The neighboring Vegavati river then overflowed and threatened to engulf the Shiva Lingam and that Parvati embraced the Lingam. Lord Shiva touched by the gesture appeared in person and married her. In this context he is referred to as Tazhuva kuzhainthaar ("He who melted in Her embrace") in Tamil.

By now, the Sun, taking a cue from neighbouring Chennai, was smouldering; we were famished and sourged for food - while searching for the hotel where we reserved our rooms. There's a MG road here, too! And traffic cops! Wow... this place never ceases to surprise! We discovered an A2B outlet right next to an over-flowing Saravana Bhavan (yet again). The under-renovation hotel was a disappointment, with hardly any clean tables and chairs, leaky washrooms, etc. Just as we sat, ordered and tend to relax, the hoel owner - an elderly gentlemen - came running and informed that our car must be removed or the traffic police will take it away!
.There it was - an MG Road in distant Kanchipuram, with parking woes!! A quick word with the abusive portly policeman with handle-bar mush and the car was taken off in a jiffy. While returning, I hit a brainwave - since it'd take a while before food was served and Bebu was fed, I could checkout our hotel (Hotel Jayabala Inernational) and if any other better fare was available.
As luck would have it, There was Sree Sakthi right next door to the traffic signal. Once inside, I found the rooms were decent, similar to hotels in B'lore and blocked one.
After lunch (good food at A2B & accomodative waiters), we all crashed in the welcoming a/c room, after planning to visit few more temples in the evening and slept soundly.
Bebu thoroughly enjoyed the day thus far, created no ruckus and was an angel.

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